Dress Twins - Sew Over It Betty Dress

Hey Guys,

Yes, it's true, I finally finished my Betty Dress! Fitted by Lisa Comfort herself :)

Once I popped the zip in, after the John Lewis Sewing Bee (I didn't get that far on the day!) it ended up being far too big, which is odd, as we had reduced the seam allowance during the fitting because it looked like it would be too small. I'm currently at at the peak of a weight yo-yo so it's not weight loss, so maybe I take in less fabric in a lapped zip than an invisible one?

Never mind, I just had some side seams to redo, and of course a MASSIVE hem. Simples.

So of course it sat on the side for 2 months. 

But I got to it in the end, and that's the most important thing. And I love it! Although I'm still without a hook and eye, but that's not the end of the world.

And it can even be a coccoon :)

(I took a lot of photos. I was starting to get a bit delirious)

I tried the method of running a line of stitching 5/8" from the hem edge before turning up and stitching. I think it worked pretty well. At the very least, it gives a perfect guide for turning up the hem which I'm always grateful for. I only turned the hem up once to begin with and it hasn't bubbled as much after pressing so I'm going to give this method a thumbs up. Only having turned it up once means the overlocking is visible, but I feel like if I go for the the second one it'll end up bubbling much more. Erp, what to do. Thankfully the overlocker thread was white so its not obvious.

I did also add three inches to the intended hem length. What can I say, I love a midi.

The insides are not some of my best work in places, what with being slightly half cut after a wine fueled lunch and sewing maniacally towards the end, but I put in some major effort at the beginning of the day to have the pattern running perfectly down the bodice, and to have the back pieces mirrored. I did also put effort in to make sure there were no unfortunate shapes over the bust apexes. And to be honest, with the bit I wanted running down the centre front, I did actually have to be careful about that! 

I actually achieved a sort of  sweetheart neckline shaping above my bust with the pattern - can you see it too??

I wore this to the JPG exhibit last weekend with a few of the Spoolettes, and this is how I styled it on the day. Mr.G didn't seem to be too enthused about the colour combos but I decided to go ahead with it! I also had a pastel pink jacket (which I forgot to put on for a photo) which I adore, and want to make a million copies of someday.

My clogs are ASOS own brand, and the belt comes from another vintage dress. I would kill to make more self fabric belts, but the kits seem impossible to find (I really want to have a covered buckle). I know of a bunch of companies that will make them for me, but jeepers they are pricey. I can't afford to pay another £15-20 per dress for a belt.

So if anyone knows of any places I can get them, or if anyone in the US spots any (you guys always have the good stuff), I will happily buy them from you!!

I think for the future, I may use a different method of construction for the neckline and facings, as I couldn't get a super clean finish on the straps (not that anyone will ever notice). There's also a bit of gaping in the front neck, but I've been getting that a lot recently (or noticing it at least). Hollow chest perhaps? Or at least in comparison to my bust. 

I'll definitely make this dress again in the future. Its super comfy. This fabric is so lovely to wear as well, unfortunately I sure as hell am not going to be able to afford any more. I even dropped a glob of raspberry jam on it when I was scoffing doughnuts and it just wiped straight off!

God knows where those extra few pounds came from - right?

I know I was complaining about full skirts recently, and I am definitely looking at heading down a slimmer shape soon, but the length of this one really helps with maneuvering about the place. 

And of course the completion of this dress makes us  Lisa and I dress twins!

Till next time!

Emmie x

The Daughters of Triton Dress...

Hello All,

So I never actually finished the Vegas Holiday line up!

This was because I really wanted to make some adjustments to the dress before I took pictures, and I only just got around to doing it! 

I'm calling this the Daughters of Triton dress, because when I was trying to come up with a post title, I realised my hair and dress had a bit of a Little Mermaid theme going on :) All I need is a shell to sit in...

This is the teal duchess satin BHL Anna bodice with a circle skirt.

Basically, the issue was that I had added horsehair braid to the hem (or at least some sort of plasticy nylon equivalent) and I ballsed it up a bit.  I was trying to go all out, and even got the braid in a jade green to blend in with the dress.

I spent hours and hours ensuring the hem was level. All I can remember about the days before the trip are: that hem, and watching Three Men and a Baby while working on that hem.

But of course, in my infinite wisdom, I decided to attach the braid while overlocking the hem. Could've worked out ok, but I didn't realise how much the braid can stretch out, and of course the implications that would have on how the hem would sit. And it must have stretched all sorts of crazy.

Cray-Cray

However, I only noticed this when I put the dress on in Vegas - because I had not tried the dress on until then. The front centre hem loop looked mental, looked like I sewed it drunk. Mega drunk. Tequila Drunk.

So unbelievably skew-iff, I was mortified.

So bad in fact, that I spent the evening folding the front loop over to one side with my arm as I was meandering.

So, I upicked the whole overlocked hem the other night, threw the horsehair in the bin (it was ruined anyways as the overlocker had nicked some of the braid and it was all unravelling), and hand stitched up the (now well-pressed) hem.

Putting it on now, it is a million times better, but looking at the photos, the front loop is still marginally longer than the rest. I may go back and re-do it, but I may not.

At least its not looking like its tipsy. Its at least sitting even across the loop. 

In these photos its actually the bottom of the zip that's annoying me, as it doesn't look puckered like that in real life!

I do really like the dress, but I don't love it as much as I thought I would. 

In my brain it was going to be THE DRESS.

I think contributing factors are the fact that the skirt is a bit shorter than I wanted, and the other factor is that the bodice is a smidgen short - which combined with the volume of the skirt at the waist, is not entirely my most flattering look from the side. I need to wear it with a belt to keep some of the volume down!

 I'm also starting to think that maybe I should try out the V-neck Anna neckline for a change. 

Finally, I've sort of fallen out of love with full circle skirts recently. It's just too much fabric to handle when you're trying to sit down, etc. And of course it's way worse at a shorter length than a longer one. 

It can be surprising how much a skirt rides up at the back when you sit down!

Bit of dance action there for ya

So yes, details of the dress.

Nothing else mega special. Hand picked lapped zipper with a matching metal zip. I loves me a metal zip.

The duchess satin presses really well. and I washed a test square on a 30/30 wash and it came out no different so I didn't pre-wash the fabric.

Ain't nobody got time for that coming up to a holiday!

(But you really should make time, do as I say, not as I do, lol)

Here's a couple of mannequin shots for a change! and a peek at some of the stash lol

And that's it folks! Whoops, I almost forgot - one on the night!

I think the holiday is finally finished, and only 2 months after :)

Maybe I can start cracking into the US fabric now. Although I held up one piece today and went to myself - you bought one yard. ONE That wasn't your cleverest move. 

In case you don't know me. I never buy less than two METRES; never mind one yard.

I guess there's some pencil skirts on my horizon, eh?

Emmie x

Since when is Yellow, Mellow?

Hey Guys!

I swear we are going to finish up on the holiday wardrobe sometime in the next month! Nah, I think it's only one more after this, but I want to make a change to it before I'm happy to take pictures in it!

This is another simple circle skirt, but it taught me a few things!

Firsty, it really shows the length difference that comes from different width fabric (if you are going to cut the skirt as a full circle!). In truth, this skirt is my minimum length for skirts - and really in some ways I feel like its very short on me. Strange how you get used to a certain length! 

Secondly, it taught me about fabric choice! This one feels even stiffer than the black one. I didn't actually end up wearing it while we were away (probably because I bought more clothes that I was more excited by!). 

You may remember this fabric from the skirt I made my sister a year ago (only because it's a pretty memorable yellow!), and it's going to come up again here shortly, in what has become more than a muslin! 

The future one is almost what I had imagined making out of this fabric for the trip, but ran out of time so I'm glad it's coming to fruition.

Thirdly, I learnt that some fabrics definitely should be prewashed. I was strapped for time, but I it could definitely use being softened up, and perhaps a few runs through the machine would help. Never looks as bad in my pictures I've found!

Not many people do, but I really love yellow!

Going from picture to picture, I'm not sure if the hem is completely sqwonky or if it's just the folds being stiff as hell. Levelling a hem is a nightmarish task though. 

That is why the last holiday item may take more than a week to get up here. It needs revising majorly, and not even in the way you'd expect.

Fourthly, I learned that you should probably interface a stretch cotton waistband. Look at me cutting corners all over the bloody shop. The waistband was cut curved (in a good way!). 

I can't remember if it was intentional or an accident but I used it to my advantage. However, because the fabric was stiff I decided not to interface it. Plus I find it such a mind numbing job. However, I ended up having to move the button on the waistband because of the stretch, and the buttonhole is gaping open because of the stretch.

To be honest, all of the issues are button related, and the main part of the waistband is A-OK.

The last thing I think I've learnt, is that I'm not 100% sure if I like circle skirts as much as I thought I did when I didn't have any. It's just a lot of fabric - not to buy, just to manage getting around the place. I keep getting tangled in my bags and things when I'm moving around, it's a nightmare trying to straighten myself out sitting down on the train, or even at the dinner table.

And they always come up way shorter at the back sitting down than you think they are, and I bloody hate the backs of my legs sticking to chairs.

So I think, I'm going to be looking for a flared alternative. Maybe a half circle. Maybe go back to my old Simplicity pattern. Maybe a Sewaholic Hollyburn type gored effect (just not sure how I feel about a deam up the centre front). I guess we shall find out.

So there's your lot.

When I finish up on the next dress, I swear there's enough left for another skirt. 

It's the fabric that keeps on giving.

Little secret? This hair was left over from the NYLON meetup the previous day.

I was so tired when I got home, I just got into bed with my fringe still up!

Hairspray for the win!

Emmie x

Anyone interested in a Tropical Sunset?

Hey guyyyyyys.....

Continuing on our voyage through the Vegas wardrobe; today we have my Tropical Playsuit.

I had wanted a two piece ever since I saw Katy & Laney's beach playsuits, and after I had sewed it up they started popping up all over the place!

I got the fabric on Goldhawk Road, on a Spoolette outing. I can't remember how long ago, but it's probably a cotton sateen. You know me, I like things with a bit of weight to them.

That being said, it's possibly a tiny bit stiff for the skirt. It does stand in it's folds a bit!

It feels a bit odd when you're dressing for a chilly day with tights on, but bare-legged round the pool in Vegas it felt dandy! I wore this to the Tiki Pool Party on the last day of Viva. I wanted to feel in the vibe, but as I wasn't staying in the hotel, I didn't really feel like being in a swimsuit.

The skirt is a another simple old circle skirt (fast and easy for building a holiday wardrobe!).

This was the first and I left it to hang as instructed by so many of you out there. Thankfully, it didn't seem to drop at all - which made me a happy lady. Invisible zip, button on the waistband.

The buttonholes were a bit poo that day. 

I had stiffened the waistband with some vintage grosgrain ribbon, but I probably should have interfaced the cotton too. Plus, vintage grosgrain is pretty dense, so that didn't help making a buttonhole. 

Either way, blah.

The bodice is another story. I put it together in a bit of a mish-mash and out popped something really great!

I used the bodice from B5731 to start off. This is actually the pattern to replicate the Princess Kate wedding dress. But be forewarned, if you're feeling like a royal wedding - there is a CRAP-tonne of pattern pieces. I would not be excited to be making this dress. And there is no way I would be tracing it off! This is one pattern I would prefer to re-purchase if I messed up!

It's a princess-seamed sweetheart strapless bodice. It has different cup sizes for the bodice, so I cut the D (even though I am definitely bigger than a D!). I expected that as a Big 4 there would be some extra space in there! It looked pretty crap to begin with, all baggy and way too big. I think I cut the 14, which should have been 2" too small in the waist and I think I still took room out. I added an inch to the bottom for hemming.

I took the excess out in the back seam for simplicity. The only other issue with the muslin was the shape of the princess seams. I had to reshape the curve - I can't imagine that anyone has a bust shaped like that. 

I know I like vintage, and vintage means pointy, but still, come on.

I flattened out the curve quite a bit. to be honest, I could do with flattening it out more to be honest, but the print hides it. And my strapless bra is pretty dome shaped so that ain't helpin' none.

I'm not entirely comfortable with strapless these days so I drafted up some straps. And by drafted, I mean I drew some shapes and checked if they looked right. They're slightly pointed at the shoulder, I just felt it might be more flattering if they got wider at the top.

When I was making my muslin for the bodice, I came up against the issue of, you know, getting into it.

 I didn't have a separating zip (to be honest, separating zips didn't even occur to me). I thought, well I can't put the zip in normally - the waist is too narrow to get over my shoulders. 

So I just thought - put it in upside down.

Then the waist opens enough to get on, and the bust is already big enough to get on.

BINGO

I lined the bodice with some plain cotton poplin, and I stitched in the ditch down the side seams on the outside to keep it all straight and in place. I topstitched the bottom hem to stop it rolling. I put hooks and eyes on the straps so I could detatch them (and I didn't know what length/position I wanted them during construction and thought it would be a bit difficult to sandwich them), but in the end they got tacked on for spreed and security.

Finally, seen in my SewDollyClackett post, a picture of me at the pool party with my friend Candie. Her and her husband José were completely awesome, and we had such a great time with them!

So, in conclusion; two-pieces rock. Vegas rocks.

THE END

Emmie x

Boppin' in Blue...

Hey Guys,

I wasn't sure that I was even going to blog this skirt, as it's just a simple circle skirt, but I really like this set of photos so - meh - you're getting it!

I made this to go in the Vegas line up, but once I put it on for these photo's I couldn't take it off!

I wore it to a Barbeque that day, but I was so cold I stood to close to the fire and it got super smokey!

Turns out it doesn't dry too quick, and therefore it didn't get in the case! On top of that, it is actually quite heavy, so for weight limit reasoning it was a pretty good call.

The fabric was bought from Rolls and Rems in Lewisham, on a meetup with the Spoolettes. I went with the intention of buying heavy fabrics for weighty circle skirts and I found a whole bunch. All different fabrics, and different colours. I think they were all cottons or cotton blends. Apparently they don't see sense in stocking a range of colours in the same fabric. 

Because, you know, that wouldn't be sensible.

This particular one was a lovely shade of blue, and has a really interesting textured pattern in the weave.

Oddly enough that I love this so much, I own hardly any blue clothes!

I did a lapped zipper (see, told you I was obsessed - once you go Lapped, you never go back).

I added a button closure with a lovely pink button to both contrast and compliment *ooOOoo*

I bought a bag of mixed buttons (you got to mix them yourself) and by golly I'm going back for more. They were awesome buttons, and I have used so many in my recent projects. Total score, as the bag was a fixed,  and quite cheap, price. I assume it goes without saying that I absolutely stuffed it.

I've been cutting my recent circle skirts as a complete circle, and them trimming closely down one edge to create the side seam. This method is really quick and easy, but you are limited with the length of skirt you can get out of the fabric. If my sums are right, even with a 64" wide fabric, you could only get about 28" (which would change of course depending on the circumference of your waist). So what I am going to have to do is buy a bit of extra fabric length and cut 2 longer half-circles side by side. 

An extra seam, but a longer skirt.

And I loves me a midi.

Now lets turn up the twirls!

And there we go! I felt very 'Grease' like at the Barbeque. And I got a pic of me enjoying the sun in my daytime styling of a RTW striped denim jacket and some white plimsols :)

Oh, and some berry cider, of course.

LYLT,

Emmie xx