Showing posts with label vintage guts. Show all posts
Showing posts with label vintage guts. Show all posts

Vintage Guts, Part 4

Tuesday, 10 March 2015


And I'm back! Look at me, keeping a ball rolling...

Welcome viewer, to the next installment of the Vintage Guts Series. Today I'm bringing you a beautiful cocktail number I picked up in downtown Las Vegas. It has some lovely little details in the construction that I hadn't even hit upon before I started photographing it.


I found the dress in an kitschy antiques store in downtown Las Vegas. I was looking for a vintage clothes shop that turned out to be closed, and stumbled across this one. There was another shirtdress I adored, but it was just too big. This cost me the pricely sum of $34. Nuts.

Unfortunately, to my exasperation, I could not get a photograph of it's true colour. These photographs all came out a bright glaring coral initially! I had to play with some colour levels to get close, so I apologise if some have a strange tint - you couldn't see the dress under all that glare! In reality, it's a deep deep cerise pink.


It has a pleated upper bodice, and pleated straps that sit off the shoulder.


The skirt of the dress has soft pleats, and a faux sarong wrap front.



It closes with a lapped metal zipper, with a hook and thread loop at the top and at the waist.




The tag reads 'Bain's Las Vegas - Los Angeles'. From what I have managed to rustle up, Bain's was a department store in Las Vegas, situated on Freemont Street, which was the original Vegas Strip (now downtown Las Vegas). I've also found other dresses with tags that just read Las Vegas, without the Los Angeles. All the dresses that have turned up in my search have been very much 50's, with mostly cocktail/party dresses turning up. So i'm going with somewhere in the region of the 50's for this dress.


As you can see, there are a few different seam finishes going on. There is some pinking, and some raw edges. There seems to be a decent seam allowance left throughout.



The facings are turned under and stitched. It's hard to tell in this photo, but the dress employs both a lining AND facings. It's clearer to see when we get into the guts.


The back has this awesome pointed back waistline, which I can't believe that they matched across the lapped zip.


Ahem. Unfortunately, the night I tried to wear the dress, I felt the back seam go the first time I sat down (thankfully before we had left the hotel grounds). The poor dress is old, and therefore the thread seems to be a little weak in spots. I haven't mended it yet.


It has a lovely deep hem. I LOVE a deep hem now. It makes garment's hang so well. The edge of the hem is enclosed in a seam binding and handstitched.


OK! Here we get gutsy! And a bit more coral than before!


As you can see, there is some boning under the bustline. It appears to be plastic and bendable. There are 3 darts in the skirt lining (remember that, it gets more interesting later on). 


There is a little curved horizontal dart in the bodice lining, which clearly removes some fullness, although I'd love some more thoughts on this!


There is also boning in the back to help the dress hold it's shape. I'm assuming this was included as the straps do not help support the dress.


The glare!! If you take a moment to pop on some sunglasses, you can see the the outer and lining were treated as one at the neckline, and attached to the facing as one. the facing is handstitched to the lining, although this is starting to come apart.


The upper side seam of the front bodice is tightly ruched, which is what helps form the front folds in the bodice.



There are some hanging loops under the arms which seams to be made out of seam binding.



There is elastic incorporated over the top of the sleeves to ensure they stay put while you're posing by the bar! They are held in place with thread loops.


The fullness of the lining bust dart was pinked.


Back to the waistline, there is seam binding around the waist seam.




And just a quick look at the inside of the back waistline.


The seam binding at the waistline was stopped just as the seam begins to slope down. 


As you can see, there are two darts in the back skirt.


Now, the faux sarong. Looks normal.


But interestingly, the inside section is part of the lining. Turns out the right front of the outer skirt is underlined, and the outer fabric only partially comes across and is stitched to the lining. I'm assuming this is to reduce bulk, and I think it's a great design detail/



There is a side slit, which only half of is free.


The hem of the side of the sarong is a single layer turned under.


My favourite detail that I hadn't notice, is that there is no side seam on the right side of the wrap, there is a dart instead! I've never seen this in a garment before. So it's a continuous piece from the back seam to the sarong wrap.


And, I have a picture from just before I burst out of it :) You know, back when I could actually fit into it. I wouldn't even dare try at the moment.


And of course, for your viewing pleasure, after I burst out of it. I had just sat down on the shuttle bus on the way to the last night of festivities. WHOOPS. You know I'm all about that Bass.


Anything you've spotted that I missed? Or anything you want to see closer?

LYLT,

Emmie x

Vintage Guts Part.3

Sunday, 19 October 2014


Hey Guys!
I've had a super productive weekend! I finally managed to trace and muslin a By Hand London Charlotte skirt and cut out another  in fabric to add to a dress bodice (which happens to be a wearable muslin of a previous make!). 

My Papercut Patterns Rigel also arrived in the post Saturday morning (perfect timing!) and got traced and cut out in a black twill (and overlocked!). I also cut out my ribbing too. This will probably be my only decent pre-Paris make (oh, did I mention I was going to Paris??), and there's nothing I need more than some more jackets and a decent coat. 


Trying to decide whether to make a coat or buy one. If I manage to see one I like I'll buy but we shall see. I would start putting one together now, but I've realised how much fabric is required for a coat - every one I like in my stash needs between 3 and 5 yards and I don't have that much foresight! Plus, by the time I make one It'll be next Winter.

I also finally I redrafted out some of the excess in my Coppélia pattern and I'm planning on cutting that out too!

Oh and finally I took a bunch of the picture for future destashing on Etsy. I know, I know - shirink my stash by filling yours!


Now, what I'm here to show you today is another Vintage piece. I picked it up in New York, in a little Vintage shop in the East Village shortly before we left. I think I paid about $40. it was slightly more than I wanted to pay, especially because I'm not usually a fan of such a high neckline, but I fell in love with the Bead/Lantern design on the fabric and I couldn't leave it behind!


There's a large all-in-one facing that finishes the neckline and armholes. It looks pretty obvious here, but it's less obvious when it's worn. It opens with a long metal zip down the back.


It has quite a boxy shape, so there's no issue getting the top on and off. It just about tucks into a skirt, but there's somewhat of a risk it can pop out if I bend forward!


The seams are finished with overlocking (apart from the back seam for some reason), but there's nothing else fancy in the production. The neckline and armholes are understitched.



I've tried to find out about the brand, but nothing's coming up in my basic search! The top is a size 16, so ties in with normal vintage sizing.



I love this fabric!! I would buy the bolt if I could! I love embellished fabric like this. As you can see, the neckline is quite high, but it wasn't as bad as I thought it would be when I wore it.



The hem is blindstitched, and is hardly visible from the outside.


I can't think of much else to say! This one is short and sweet! I'll leave you with a picture of me wearing it that you may have already seen :)


Back soon!
Emmie x

Made With Love By The Dutch Lady Designs