My Oh Sew Vintage Life: Skirt

Hi guys,

Long time no hear? (Is that an Irishism btw? I'm still having to check certain phrases, even after 4 years)

SO.. I haven't posted in a while, but I have been tipping away (now that's definitely an Irishism?).

aNYwho -

So I have been sewing, trying to muslin out a Mae blouse at the moment, and I've been having a few issues -

Mainly the first one was too small. The back barely touched, and clearly as its a button placket, its supposed to overlap!

I was surprised as I did go by the measurements, and even traced between sizes for some ease.

I have done an FBA and some other random tweaking (mainly more letting out) so I should be good to go soon. I've just cut out the 3rd (hopefully wearable) muslin. Mr.G left me alone last night to get it all sewn up, but on a phone call to my Mam she asked me about the skirt that I was supposed to be making my sister, and I realised that it was sitting in a box, just waiting to interface the facings.

And after Kathryn's Sewing Enjoyment chart, I've realised my 0% is interfacing stuff.

Why - I don't know..

But I decided to get my shit together and suck it up, and I've just finished off the whole thing.

Boo yea!

As the title said, its a Deer & Doe Chardon skirt. I'm actually very proud of the darn thing! It looks great, and I'm really excited to give it to my sister.

I can't model it for you myself, as she has a smaller waist, so I'll have to let the dressform do the honours.

Pattern-wise, it came together really quick. I used a tropical print, medium weight, stretch cotton from A1 on Goldhawk Rd. It was one of the 5 meter lengths that Janene and Roisin split in the past.

I, however, am selfish and if 5 meters are there then they're all mine!! Mwa- ha ha.

Thankfully, I have still got more than enough of this to make myself a dress too :)

The fabric is weighty enough to give the pleats a proper pop, and stand off the body.

I did find it came up a bit big (although maybe the fabric stretched?) so I trimmed it down.

I'm a bit nervous that I was a bit trim happy so hopefully it fits! I also shortened it a fair bit, as my sister is one for the short skirt (occasionally indecent). I think for her this is a very modest, demure length.

The fabric is a bit thick in terms of folding down the facings and getting them to sit down, and again in terms of zipping up at the facing area. This was a combination of the fabric, but also all the pleats. Although my zipper insertion was very clean! I topstitched along the top to keep the facing down inside.

I did intend on doing the back bow but I forgot to do it before I sewed up that pleat, and then I wasn't arsed going back to put it in! I wasn't sure about it anyway because I only had the same print, and the fact the fabric is so thick, I wasn't sure it would tie well. No matter.

One thing I ADORE about this pattern is the pockets! Granted they are my first pockets, so I'm pretty excited about them, but they are lovely and deep, and are the perfect hand-size - wrist deep! They feel so good. and they are really well hidden in the pleats. They will be my go to pocket pattern piece from now on.

And I must say, one of the reasons it came together so fast and so clean, was because of this baby...

Surprise!! I got an overlocker yesterday!!!

Its a Janome 9200d, and I must say I am IN LOVE

Now, I didn't expect to be... Mr.G was going to get me one for Christmas, and I wasn't even excited.

I was a bit shruggy about it. A bit 'Meh'.

I kept saying - "I don't really neeeed one".

But dear god things have changed. The insides of this skirt look serious.

Now, the surprise is the overlocker, and the story of how the stork brought my baby to me.

Well -

I was walking through town last week, and was thinking about how I would love to befriend a tailor/dressmaker to teach me the ways of the needle, and as I was passing a small tailors that I usually just stroll past, I looked in the window, and I saw that he was selling mannequins for £20. Mr.G noticed a few other things for sale, and we wondered if perhaps he was closing.

I passed again today, and noticed other things for sale. And hanging up there was a Harris Tweed men's Jacket for £45. Bearing in mind that the last Harris jacket I saw was £250, I couldn't help having a look.

It was a 40" chest, so I thought I could definitely take it all apart and cut each piece in a more me size.. perhaps? It didn't have much detailing as it stood, so the pieces weren't distorted.

It looks vintage (the lining has that look), so I decided to go for it.

I have pictures of the expensive jackets I was inspired by.

As I had forgot my purse, Mr.G had to go to the cash machine.

In the meantime, me and the Tailor-man got to talking about dressmaking and he asked me if I had an overlocker. He then proceeded to tell me he was intending on selling his 6-9 month one due to closing down.

And then he said he would sell it for £70.

BARGAIN!

I was sold, and Mr.G had to go to the cash machine again. He also did a quick google search and it came up at £200-250. On top of that, I bought a big tin of buttons for £5. He said there were some Horn buttons in there (but I'm no button connoisseur).

And he gave me a sleeve board (as he had 3!). I just have to pad and cover it, but he showed me how he did his. It pretty big. I may have to get a smaller one for slim sleeves! but it will be good for wider sleeves and trouser legs. Or maybe it will be ok, I haven't done many sleeves so far.

It was so cool. And there's more that I'm going to buy off him...

But I'll talk about that when I get them.

Some stuff he's ready to part with (but I had enough to carry for one day, and I couldn't send Mr.G to the cash machine for a third time!) And other things he's gonna wait until he's closing the doors. There's a couple bits of fabric I have my eye on!

I also want to take pictures of his industrial machine ( I think he said approx 5200 stitches a minute - that is mind-boggling) and an industrial overlocker (the reason he had the Janome was because it takes about 2hrs to change a thread colour!). And also, an industrial steam iron (which you have to fill with 5 pints of water in the morning! Something like 40psi of steam).

It's only a small shop but it was cool to see thing's I'd never seen before.

I'll have to wait and see what his price will be for a few of the bits - I'm gonna put a clamp on my bank account for the minute!

To be continued, eh?

Do you think that I will be able to refashion the Jacket???

LYLT,

Emmie x

Hi Everyone,

I know, you only saw me yesterday, but I'm on a week off at the moment, and these were my 'plan-free' days. Therefore you get lots of me on your feed! Makes me look like a prolific sewer too so win win.

SO... here I present to you my finished Victoria Blazer...

I chose to do the cropped version, as I have a few 'boyfriend' blazers that I don't really wear any more, and I thought the cropped one would look cute over full skirted dresses. However after seeing some long ones, I may be tempted.

I don't know what I can say about this pattern that hasn't already been said! It's very cleverly drafted and comes together so quickly. I was stumped by the front dart/collar step for about 24hrs but then I saw the light (after a lot of twitter help), and it really is ingenious. The pattern instructions are as clear and well written as always.

I'm a UK 12, but as the jacket is quite loose, I cut the UK 10 as I like my jackets more fitted. I did measure some of my other favourite jackets first. Even at that, it's still very loose fitted!

My shell fabric is from the Birmingham Meetup (thanks to whoever donated!) and the lining was a scrap that I just managed to squeeze the pieces out of. I loved the thought of contrast cuffs, and this was confirmed when I saw Marie's blazer.

It does kick out a bit at the back in the cropped version. I feel a bit like a bell :)

I love certain details in the pattern, like the turned up cuffs, and the fact that the collar seam turns into the front dart.

Onto the aforementioned cock-ups.

I had trouble cutting out the blazer front. The UK10 and UK12 lines are both dots (the size 10 dots are slightly bigger and slightly more frequent) and they made my eyes a bit googly at times as I found it difficult to differentiate. I had problems where the neckline dips down to the dart point as the different sizes, and both sets of dots, all overlap. I did manage it in the end though.

However, as I was putting the shell together, I realised that I cut the front of the blazer too short. 2cm too short. All of the bodice sizes are spread out, so I had cut the 12 crop line instead of the 10. Stupid me.

ulgh

I decided that I wasn't against it being shorter so I cut the back to match.

Now some of you out there, may have realised the repercussions of such a decision, but I shamefully did not until I had attached all the lapels, and stitched the lining in at the front.

For those of you who have yet to click, The lapels were now stitched along the full length of the front, with no fabric left below them to hem the blazer.

ULGH

I did even see that they were the full length, before stitching in the lining, and it didn't click.

After that I also noticed that my cuffs were the wrong way round, with the outer kick on the inside.

ARGH!

And so I decided to go to a barbeque instead of getting angry and wrecking it.

So on Sunday I put it back together the way it should have been (with some 2cm trimmed lapels) and finished it off.

I also found out that when I had cut out the lining, some of it (the underneath bit when I matched the sevledges) was much shorter than the other bit. So in the end I had to do some careful alignment when stitching it down, to make sure that I could in fact stitch it down.

I decided to copy a dress of mine, and align the lining at the armhole with the armhole seams and finish the lining against it instead of handstitching.

My sleeve had no give in it in that direction to ease in the fullness, so I had to gather the sleeve heads.

No dudes. I am terrible at gathering, but I had a small epiphany for doing it on the fly in this situation which worked a treat. I might do a small example blog for you guys if anyone is interested?