UnBoxing a Bernina 380 - What do you get?? And a Bernina Newbie's impression :)

Hey Guys!

You may remember when I was looking at getting a new sewing machine? Well if you are on twitter or Instagram, you will have noticed that I bit the bullet and invested heavily in my sewing future.

I had never considered Bernina before as a machine that I might use. I knew they were the best, but I didn't like how slim and tall they were, I didn't like how little space on the neck you had to sew over the footplate, and I didn't like how simple looking the 1 and 2 series were, which were the only ones I was familiar with.

Its a terrible thing to say, and my dealer thought I was mad for not considering certain machines because of how they look. Thankfully, my partner understood! He is massively into aesthetic. You should have seen how long it took him to choose a television (hint: we are talking months in double figures).

At the end of the day, you need to be happy with what you buy, and have feel positive sitting at it, no?

Well my first inkling that I may consider Bernina was looking at Lauren from Lladybird's 350PE. Seeing it occasionally in her photo's, in a natural sewing environment was what swayed me. Throw in on top that you get a table extension as standard was what really sealed the deal - the slim neck problem solved.

Now the reason I went for the 380 over the 350, was only because I got an amazing deal on my machine. I really wanted to keep it local, for support, and to support my local sewing shop. They were happy to match an offer I had found which had £100 off the machine (which made it only £100 more than the 350) and a walking foot included (worth £99). Otherwise I may not have stepped up to the 380.

I had never sewn with a Bernina before so they ordered it in, and I had an agonising week to wait to try it out as my shifts at work didn't line up with their opening hours. Argh! Thankfully, she was leaving it boxed and sealed for me, so I was a happy camper. I didn't want someone touching my (potential) baby!

So I went there yesterday morning and spent 4 hours chatting and playing. I was unsure when we unboxed it, but I could find no fault with it as we played. By the end, I was panicking about having to make a decision but it felt like it was mine. When my partner was turning up, I knew we would be on a time limit to get back to the car so I just went 'Yes, buy it'. At times like that, money seems no more precious to me than beans.

You gotta have joy in your life! And my machine at home, was not making sewing feel joyful to me.

SO

What I would have liked when I was looking at machines was more home reviews, natural environment pictures, user impressions, etc. My main point of reference was Bernina themselves, which is of course biased. But I did have some sewists help with questions! And my dealer is pretty straight talking, and will answer your questions straight.

So I thought perhaps, any of you guys out there who are pondering a purchase, may like to see what comes out of that tightly packed box.

Firstly the Beauty itself

Next the extension table

The Knee-Lift (lifts the presser foot)

A Cloth-Guide

The Foot Pedal

The Dust Cover

The Accessories Case

The Included Presser Feet
1 - Reverse Pattern Foot
2 - Overlock Foot
3A - Automatic Buttonhole Foot
4 - Zipper Foot
5 - Blindstitch Foot
8 - Jeans foot
20 - Open Embroidery Foot

The Other Accessories
5 Bobbins (one in the machine)
Selection of Bernina Needles
Seam Guide
Height compensating tool
Bernina Seam Ripper
Screwdriver
Lint Brust
Oil/Lubricant (Only to be used in bobbin case)
2 Foam pads (Vertical Spool Pin)
3 Spool Disc Clamps (Horizontal Spool pin)
Star Alan Key

The Three-Sole Walking Foot

The Decorative Stitch Guide (Fits to stand up in handle)

A little pack of threads

The Guarantee
Instruction Booklet
Accessories guide
Price list for Accessories

Also - not pictured is the box!

SO - Some random bits of info (as many as I can remember!) -

The other machines in the 3 Series should be almost identical to sew on, there is just additional functionality, and possibly different accessories as you move between (the 350 has a few extra different feet/is missing a few different feet than the 330/380 as it's a 'Patchwork Edition')

Regular universal needles are fine, but some brands aren't the best due to slight variances, so I'm going to stick with Schmetz

The machine was actually smaller than I expected from the pictures

No oil in the machine head, only the bobbin case occasionally

Bobbins are sold individually at £1.75 each

The bobbin case is under the neck, so you won't be able to peek at it as you stitch

The throat-plate just pops up, so no screwdriver required for a quick clean

Until the end of January, new machines get a 7 year warranty (Usually 5 I think)

This warranty requires servicing by an authorised Bernina Engineer every 3 years min to remain valid, so factor that cost in (although you should service in any case). My local shop is £89 for a computerised machine for a full service.

The presser feet that came with mine are solid necks, there are snap-on versions too, but I'm not sure about what machines they should/shouldn't be used with etc - must find out. The solid neck ones clip on just as easy as a snap-on foot.

Remember, Presser Feet are pricey; snap-on are clearly going to be cheaper than solid neck. Solid neck range from about £21.50 for a straight stitch to £72 for a ruffler to £165 for a Non-prefolded bias binding foot.

The machine can be used without the pedal, and has a start/stop button with a speed regulator. Therefore the power lean and pedal lead are separate.

The pedal is amazing! So much more control of speed, etc, than any pedal I've tried. Stitching in general is incredible. I think you would have to fight to have wonky stitching on this thing.

When you select your stitch, it will tell you what foot to put on.

There are 9 needle positions - and only 3 feed dogs

There are a pattern end and pattern mirror functions

There is a needle stop at up/down function - which is active using both the pedal and without

It has really nice bright LED lights

There is a 'Balance adjuster' that occasionally may be requires for decorative patterns and a feed dog drop button

The bobbin winds automatically

The table extension is included - very handy

The 380 is the only 3 Series machine that comes with the Accessories case, the others have a zip bag.

I would avoid magnetic pin-cushions, etc, near the machine, due to the computer. There is a risk that it could wipe the memory

Keep your box, as all transport for servicing or repairs will require the box. You will be charged each time if you have thrown it away

The instruction manuals/accessories catalogue are worth a lot of money so keep them safe!

You set up a buttonhole initially, and once set it will repeat the button hole automatically for your project.


Ummmmmmm.... I think that's all I can think of for now! Hope this helps someone make that important decision!

Thanks everyone for your support!

Emmie x

You just can't win...

Hey Guys,

Some of you might remember that I bought a vintage Singer 201k a little while back (and I swear I intend to use it soon!).

 Well, I could remember growing up that my Mam had a Singer too, with a wheel like the vintage ones. I could picture the box, but not the machine. I knew it wasn't modern but I didn't think it was proper vintage either (from my child memory). And then once she had bought me my first one 9 years ago - 9 years! God, imagine how good I could've been by now! - well, she started to use that one because it had more features and you didn't risk doing yourself an injury every time you needed to get it out. The vintage Singer machines weigh about 20kg, which is why we haven't eaten at our dining table since I bought it.

I was rummaging around yesterday for an old textbook I had, and what showed its face again but the sewing machines box. Of course I had to have a look, and this is what I found...

It WAS a vintage one. I'm such a dope. And when I typed its serial code into the website, it turns out it's actually bloody older than mine!! Hers is 1930, mine is 1937. I lose!

I tried to find the model, and found a useful website that takes you through step by step questions about the placement of dials, and the placement of the bobbin and other features and I think hers is a 15-30. But I can't be sure. It's hard to know whether it was originally motorised or if it was added later. It's definitely not the original base and case, because they look pretty new and pine-y. Mine looks old and so does the case so hers must have been swapped out. Or maybe it was in a treadle originally?

Who knows I guess? Dad said it came with its manuals, but they aren't in the base anymore, and I know they bought it in the local secondhand store. But when I say secondhand, it was proper vintage secondhand. I remember wandering around all the old furniture when I was a child. They had tons of furniture, and a collection of porcelain dolls that I loved. I collected them too when I was young, and had a decent collection, but now I find them a bit creepy! I need to find out from my Mam if it closed down yet... I know they reduced the shop size, but there were still there for a long time. They used to have the most amazing Dolls house in the window at Christmas too.

Christmas makes me nostalgic :)

Late night sewing... Mae Blouse - Bluegingerdoll

Hi Guys,

I finished the third attempt at my Mae blouse! Yes THIRD.

Let me take you on a journey...

The first attempt was with sewable tracing paper. 

I traced between the size that suited my "finished garment" measurements and the next size up, but it wouldn't even close. This surprised me, as I know the patterns are drafted for a D (I know I'm an E but I thought I was gonna be pretty close, I was wrong). I definitely needed some bust adjusting, I wasn't even been able to close it! 

So I decided to follow the sewalong, and do an FBA.

However it went a bit weird in the middle. Let me explain why.

In the sewalong, the first thing you do for an FBA is cut off the sleevey bit. Then you do the FBA and stick the shoulder back on.

Weirdness 1: In the sewalong (illustrated) pictures, it shows a straight edge where you trimmed off the sleeve, even after the FBA. But when you do an FBA you create a side Dart and it ends up kicking out at the side, it doesn't end up straight. I didn't know what to do so i just overlapped the sleeve over the kicked out bit and continued on

Weirdness 2: The side dart created is never mentioned again. I was at a loss as to whether to ignore its existence or sew it up. I thought it would be be baggy and weird if I ignored it, so I sewed it up and trued up the waist/hips. Although I kind of made a balls of measuring them (I forgot to remove the front darts when measuring)

Muslin 2 was done in a lilac cotton sateen lining, that I thought could possibly be wearable, until I cut too short a piece of fabric (although it was still workable) Then I realised that it had a really loose weave (pins were leaving massive holes) and that it was pulling like hell. No No No.

After sewing that up, it closed, but it was SNUG. And getting something to just close is not something to aim for! It was drag-line city.

So I halved the seam allowance and tried again. Close but no cigar.

I drew a whole new seam allowance on the pattern for the next try.

So that brings us to Muslin 3! I made it with something I got at a stash swap. (Thanks to whoever donated!). Not sure what it is, a slub silk or a wannabe slub silk. Either way, its a little stiff, so bear with me in terms of how it crumples instead of drapes. Part of the issue is that my skirt has a smaller waist than the blouse! It looks a lot shinier in these photos too... 

Now in photo one, I am becoming one with the fabric in terms of stiffness. What is with the arms? I look like a puppet on a string. However, let us admire the fact that I found something to match it in my wardrobe! A kilt I got in the Salvation Army. Talk about a 'Fall' Wardrobe, eh?

Although in this photo, I think it looks a little big, it looks better shortly!

I am pretty proud of my finishing. I surprised myself with the scalloped neckline, I thought that was going to be a lot harder. It turned out a lot better than I thought, although Thank God it did because any flaws would be really obvious in this fabric. I used my new overlocker (although it was threaded white, so the insides look a little silly) but I did hand catchstitch all of the hem and sleeve facings! And partially thanks to the stiffness, partially my mad 1.00am sewing skills and partially Mr.G's thread matching capabilities, I think its pretty damn good.

It's like the 1.00am sewing never happened... 

I haven't done the neckline facing. Yet. I'm still not sure if I want to, in case it's too obvious.

In a side note, you can see my crazy eye colour in that top photo!

After the first few photo's, I decided to loosen up and stop looking like such a grump grump.

However, apparently I must raise one eyebrow at all times.

One modification I made to the back was to do the buttonholes vertical instead on horizontal, as I didn't like  the thought of how the buttons would drag off to one side instead of being central in the buttonhole.

I wish that the skirt waist wasn't so snug! Crumple crumple.

I would like to take this opportunity to categorically state that I sewed the buttons on straight and tight, but the buggers prefer to look tipsy, no matter how much I twiddle them. They are vintage buttons that I bought in a vintage shop in Rochester. Thanks for the recommendation Rachel!

All in all I found the pattern pretty straight forward, although I would definitely follow the sewalong, as I found the written/illustrated instructions hard to follow. 

It's probably just how my brain works, but I was stumped in a few places. The hem boggled me so I winged it in the end. I didn't end up doing the second turn either. Ironically I think I understand now, in this exact moment. The photo was the wrong way up for my brain.

But look, I'm still happy with how it turned out! Even my eyebrow agrees

Another version is already in the pipeline. 

Has anyone else noted how ridiculous the concept of a button-back blouse is??

My arms go forward people!

LYLT,

Emmie x

Selfless sewing - Deer & Doe Chardon .... and a few surprises!

Hi guys,

Long time no hear? (Is that an Irishism btw? I'm still having to check certain phrases, even after 4 years)

SO.. I haven't posted in a while, but I have been tipping away (now that's definitely an Irishism?).

aNYwho - 

So I have been sewing, trying to muslin out a Mae blouse at the moment, and I've been having a few issues - 

Mainly the first one was too small. The back barely touched, and clearly as its a button placket, its supposed to overlap!

I was surprised as I did go by the measurements, and even traced between sizes for some ease. 

I have done an FBA and some other random tweaking (mainly more letting out) so I should be good to go soon. I've just cut out the 3rd (hopefully wearable) muslin. Mr.G left me alone last night to get it all sewn up, but on a phone call to my Mam she asked me about the skirt that I was supposed to be making my sister, and I realised that it was sitting in a box, just waiting to interface the facings.

And after Kathryn's Sewing Enjoyment chart, I've realised my 0% is interfacing stuff. 

Why - I don't know..

But I decided to get my shit together and suck it up, and I've just finished off the whole thing.

Boo yea!

As the title said, its a Deer & Doe Chardon skirt. I'm actually very proud of the darn thing! It looks great, and I'm really excited to give it to my sister.

I can't model it for you myself, as she has a smaller waist, so I'll have to let the dressform do the honours.

Pattern-wise, it came together really quick. I used a tropical print, medium weight, stretch cotton from A1 on Goldhawk Rd. It was one of the 5 meter lengths that Janene and Roisin split in the past. 

I, however, am selfish and if 5 meters are there then they're all mine!! Mwa- ha ha.

Thankfully, I have still got more than enough of this to make myself a dress too :)

The fabric is weighty enough to give the pleats a proper pop, and stand off the body.

I did find it came up a bit big (although maybe the fabric stretched?) so I trimmed it down.

I'm a bit nervous that I was a bit trim happy so hopefully it fits! I also shortened it a fair bit, as my sister is one for the short skirt (occasionally indecent). I think for her this is a very modest, demure length.

The fabric is a bit thick in terms of folding down the facings and getting them to sit down, and again in terms of zipping up at the facing area. This was a combination of the fabric, but also all the pleats. Although my zipper insertion was very clean! I topstitched along the top to keep the facing down inside.

I did intend on doing the back bow but I forgot to do it before I sewed up that pleat, and then I wasn't arsed going back to put it in! I wasn't sure about it anyway because I only had the same print, and the fact the fabric is so thick, I wasn't sure it would tie well. No matter.

One thing I ADORE about this pattern is the pockets! Granted they are my first pockets, so I'm pretty excited about them, but they are lovely and deep, and are the perfect hand-size - wrist deep! They feel so good. and they are really well hidden in the pleats. They will be my go to pocket pattern piece from now on.

And I must say, one of the reasons it came together so fast and so clean, was because of this baby...

Surprise!! I got an overlocker yesterday!!!

Its a Janome 9200d, and I must say I am IN LOVE

Now, I didn't expect to be... Mr.G was going to get me one for Christmas, and I wasn't even excited.

I was a bit shruggy about it. A bit 'Meh'.

I kept saying - "I don't really neeeed one".

But dear god things have changed. The insides of this skirt look serious.

Now, the surprise is the overlocker, and the story of how the stork brought my baby to me.

Well - 

I was walking through town last week, and was thinking about how I would love to befriend a tailor/dressmaker to teach me the ways of the needle, and as I was passing a small tailors that I usually just stroll past, I looked in the window, and I saw that he was selling mannequins for £20. Mr.G noticed a few other things for sale, and we wondered if perhaps he was closing.

I passed again today, and noticed other things for sale. And hanging up there was a Harris Tweed men's Jacket for £45. Bearing in mind that the last Harris jacket I saw was £250, I couldn't help having a look.

It was a 40" chest, so I thought I could definitely take it all apart and cut each piece in a more me size.. perhaps? It didn't have much detailing as it stood, so the pieces weren't distorted.

It looks vintage (the lining has that look), so I decided to go for it.

I have pictures of the expensive jackets I was inspired by.

As I had forgot my purse, Mr.G had to go to the cash machine.

In the meantime, me and the Tailor-man got to talking about dressmaking and he asked me if I had an overlocker. He then proceeded to tell me he was intending on selling his 6-9 month one due to closing down.

And then he said he would sell it for £70.

BARGAIN!

I was sold, and Mr.G had to go to the cash machine again. He also did a quick google search and it came up at £200-250. On top of that, I bought a big tin of buttons for £5. He said there were some Horn buttons in there (but I'm no button connoisseur).

 And he gave me a sleeve board (as he had 3!). I just have to pad and cover it, but he showed me how he did his. It pretty big. I may have to get a smaller one for slim sleeves! but it will be good for wider sleeves and trouser legs. Or maybe it will be ok, I haven't done many sleeves so far.

It was so cool. And there's more that I'm going to buy off him...

But I'll talk about that when I get them.

Some stuff he's ready to part with (but I had enough to carry for one day, and I couldn't send Mr.G to the cash machine for a third time!) And other things he's gonna wait until he's closing the doors. There's a couple bits of fabric I have my eye on!

I also want to take pictures of his industrial machine ( I think he said approx 5200 stitches a minute - that is mind-boggling) and an industrial overlocker (the reason he had the Janome was because it takes about 2hrs to change a thread colour!). And also, an industrial steam iron (which you have to fill with 5 pints of water in the morning! Something like 40psi of steam).

It's only a small shop but it was cool to see thing's I'd never seen before.

I'll have to wait and see what his price will be for a few of the bits - I'm gonna put a clamp on my bank account for the minute!

To be continued, eh?

Do you think that I will be able to refashion the Jacket???

LYLT, 

Emmie x