Speaking too Soon!

Hi Guys,

I clearly spoke too soon! 

I have a feature on Abby from Bluegingerdoll patterns' blog about my Mae blouses... you can pop over and check it out if you like :)

Emmie x

First Minerva Crafts make!

Hi guys!

I've been super excited to show you my first Minerva Crafts Network make - and here it is!

I eased myself in gently this month, with a Mae top by BlueGingerDoll. Granted when I decided to have this as my first make, I hadn't made it at all. Maybe I shouldn't have blogged the green one first... Oh well.

I couldn't help myself - I craved a creamy white one. It might be something to do with the fact that I have over 50 skirts, and only 2 tops that I like! You'll also see why I couldn't resist ordering this particular kit when I turn around.

The fabric I ordered to make the top is the Linen-Look Cotton, previously used by Kathryn and Anna. I thought it looked beautiful, and it had the shade of cream I was looking for. And I thought the texture would give interest to an otherwise simple top.

I love the fabric; it feels lovely against my skin, has an interesting linen texture and washes and presses really well. One of the only issues I've found about this shade is that it was somewhat more sheer than I expected. I was almost finished when I decided to check how opaque it was, but I didn't feel that a lining would've suited this top as it would add too much bulk to the lines, especially at the darts. In the future I would consider underlining this fabric colour - and I can give it a go as I seem to have half of my kit left! I think I squeezed this out of little over a metre of fabric! Thats 58" wide fabric for you.

 As I was quite a ways into the make, I decided to make some slight adjustments to make it work as it was. As the intended neck and shoulder facings for this top are quite wide, they could be seen through the top. I didn't like how it looked, so I trimmed them down to about 5/8", and I slip stitched them down. To be honest, I might actually do this again in the future, as facings drive me cracked! It just ends up looking a bit like a bias bound edge. Or, you know, you could just have a bias-bound edge (But who wants to make bias-binding? I need a bias-binding fairy).

The only other issue I encountered with this make, was the method by which I transferred my pattern markings. I'm a fan of carbon tracing paper for transferring pattern markings and tailors chalk or fabric pencils for buttonholes. They weren't visible through the fabric when I transferred them, but I could see them when I got around to pressing it properly. And the chalk tinted the cream thread in the buttonholes!
I rubbed in some intense stain treating detergent and gave it a good wash and it almost all came out, thank god! But I would definitely think of going down the tailors-tack route, or you know, using yellow carbon instead of blue next time! Only I would use blue!

You can definitely see the colour of my trousers coming through the top, but I will definitely be able to get away with wearing a nude bra and a high-waisted skirt. And hello?? I'm wearing trousers?? Who can say they've seen that before?? I just really want to show you guys the full line of the top this time.

You can read about all of my other pattern adjustments in my previous blog post here. The only thing I changed this time was to take in the hips slightly - the pouffyness was hidden under the skirt in the pictures last time. I overlocked all of the insides, and finished as many edges as I could before I started putting the pieces of fabric together.

I made the decision to make this blouse when I found these buttons. Are they not the cutest thing you've ever seen?? There are a few variations, but these were my favouite... Little Art Deco ladies. Amazing.

Changes for next time? I think I will interface the back button plackets, and I think I may topstitch the placket too. Just to give it a bit more strength and stability. Plus I like how it looks!

So, I hope you like it! You can buy the kit for my make here. You get 2 metres of the cotton (enough for any mistake!), interfacing, 7 of the beautiful buttons, and matching thread. Who doesn't love not having to go and find matching thread? I don't know anyone who would turn that down!

LYLT,

Emmie xx

Late night sewing... Mae Blouse - Bluegingerdoll

Hi Guys,

I finished the third attempt at my Mae blouse! Yes THIRD.

Let me take you on a journey...

The first attempt was with sewable tracing paper. 

I traced between the size that suited my "finished garment" measurements and the next size up, but it wouldn't even close. This surprised me, as I know the patterns are drafted for a D (I know I'm an E but I thought I was gonna be pretty close, I was wrong). I definitely needed some bust adjusting, I wasn't even been able to close it! 

So I decided to follow the sewalong, and do an FBA.

However it went a bit weird in the middle. Let me explain why.

In the sewalong, the first thing you do for an FBA is cut off the sleevey bit. Then you do the FBA and stick the shoulder back on.

Weirdness 1: In the sewalong (illustrated) pictures, it shows a straight edge where you trimmed off the sleeve, even after the FBA. But when you do an FBA you create a side Dart and it ends up kicking out at the side, it doesn't end up straight. I didn't know what to do so i just overlapped the sleeve over the kicked out bit and continued on

Weirdness 2: The side dart created is never mentioned again. I was at a loss as to whether to ignore its existence or sew it up. I thought it would be be baggy and weird if I ignored it, so I sewed it up and trued up the waist/hips. Although I kind of made a balls of measuring them (I forgot to remove the front darts when measuring)

Muslin 2 was done in a lilac cotton sateen lining, that I thought could possibly be wearable, until I cut too short a piece of fabric (although it was still workable) Then I realised that it had a really loose weave (pins were leaving massive holes) and that it was pulling like hell. No No No.

After sewing that up, it closed, but it was SNUG. And getting something to just close is not something to aim for! It was drag-line city.

So I halved the seam allowance and tried again. Close but no cigar.

I drew a whole new seam allowance on the pattern for the next try.

So that brings us to Muslin 3! I made it with something I got at a stash swap. (Thanks to whoever donated!). Not sure what it is, a slub silk or a wannabe slub silk. Either way, its a little stiff, so bear with me in terms of how it crumples instead of drapes. Part of the issue is that my skirt has a smaller waist than the blouse! It looks a lot shinier in these photos too... 

Now in photo one, I am becoming one with the fabric in terms of stiffness. What is with the arms? I look like a puppet on a string. However, let us admire the fact that I found something to match it in my wardrobe! A kilt I got in the Salvation Army. Talk about a 'Fall' Wardrobe, eh?

Although in this photo, I think it looks a little big, it looks better shortly!

I am pretty proud of my finishing. I surprised myself with the scalloped neckline, I thought that was going to be a lot harder. It turned out a lot better than I thought, although Thank God it did because any flaws would be really obvious in this fabric. I used my new overlocker (although it was threaded white, so the insides look a little silly) but I did hand catchstitch all of the hem and sleeve facings! And partially thanks to the stiffness, partially my mad 1.00am sewing skills and partially Mr.G's thread matching capabilities, I think its pretty damn good.

It's like the 1.00am sewing never happened... 

I haven't done the neckline facing. Yet. I'm still not sure if I want to, in case it's too obvious.

In a side note, you can see my crazy eye colour in that top photo!

After the first few photo's, I decided to loosen up and stop looking like such a grump grump.

However, apparently I must raise one eyebrow at all times.

One modification I made to the back was to do the buttonholes vertical instead on horizontal, as I didn't like  the thought of how the buttons would drag off to one side instead of being central in the buttonhole.

I wish that the skirt waist wasn't so snug! Crumple crumple.

I would like to take this opportunity to categorically state that I sewed the buttons on straight and tight, but the buggers prefer to look tipsy, no matter how much I twiddle them. They are vintage buttons that I bought in a vintage shop in Rochester. Thanks for the recommendation Rachel!

All in all I found the pattern pretty straight forward, although I would definitely follow the sewalong, as I found the written/illustrated instructions hard to follow. 

It's probably just how my brain works, but I was stumped in a few places. The hem boggled me so I winged it in the end. I didn't end up doing the second turn either. Ironically I think I understand now, in this exact moment. The photo was the wrong way up for my brain.

But look, I'm still happy with how it turned out! Even my eyebrow agrees

Another version is already in the pipeline. 

Has anyone else noted how ridiculous the concept of a button-back blouse is??

My arms go forward people!

LYLT,

Emmie x