Vintage Pattern Binge

Hi Guys,

Some of you may have noticed that I have been having a bit of an eBay splurge of late.

I don't know why, but sometimes I just get these unreasonable urges to acquire goodies (Thankfully for my bank balance, it's been sated in relation to both patterns and handbags this week).

And of course, I've got to share the goodies with you guys!

As you can see I've apparently been leaning more towards a 60's silhouette, which should be interesting.

And there were even a couple of original letters from the pattern companies stuck in from 1966 :)

Enjoy x

Some of that Vegas Sparkle...

Hey Guys!

I am very excited to present to you the final installment of the (Minerva) Vegas line up! you all know it's not the end of the general admission Vegas line up :)

For this kit, I chose to try out another Bengaline - and I went out on a  bit of a limb for this one. It's a sort of purpley-burgundy colour with gold glitter in it! Definitely not my usual choice but I was feeling the Vegas vibe. Now that the outfit is complete I'm actually really happy with it!

I initially was intending to make a dress, but with time running out and other holiday items left to make I decided to sacrifice and make a simple swing skirt.

Having finished the skirt, I felt like it looked slightly disappointing following on from my previous few offerings, so I threw caution to the wind and pattern hacked my BHL Anna bodice. As far as I remember I added 3" to the back seam and add an inch to the bottom all around. I of course forgot to use the stretch running horizontal again - although I'm somewhat glad I didn't as you'll find out.

After putting some of the bodice together and having a momentary fitting, it seemed that the bodice was a bit snug so I let out each pleat about 2/8". I had already shortened the pleats from previous makes. It may have been ok in the end, and I have no idea why it felt any different to usual but no harm no foul.

My major issues came up when I was doing the button placket down the back. As I mentioned earlier, I didn't cut the stretch on the horizontal, which can only mean I cut it on the vertical. I turned a small lip under for the placket and the folded over 1" twice more. And of course, as I was stitching it down it all started stretching out. I even tried to use my walking foot to no avail whatsoever. Both plackets ended up warped and wobbly like a glittery purple sea.. If only I had interfaced. Hindsight's 20:20, eh? 

I tried the only thing I could think of and tried to shrink it with steam. It looked like it worked a bit, but it was still warpy when buttoned up, and the steam was starting to strip the glitter (which is one of the reasons I reneged on washing the fabric first - I think I forgot to mention that, naughty me). I wanted it as glittery as can be for Vegas - come what may with the first wash!!  

So the only thing I could so was hand tack the back opening down and ease it as I went. I did check I could get it on first, and I can with 1 button open, miraculously. It is marginally roomier I guess than a dress bodice would be! Probably due to my letting out the pleats in the first place, and a little extra ease in the extended back piece. The bottom hem was a simple turn under and stitch jobbie.

I have a bunch of the fabric left, so I'm still considering whether to recut the bodice and redo it with interfacing.

Do I have the patience?

During this make I wasn't sure it was going to make it into the Vegas rotation due to little thought and planning going into the production (I did try to plan but nothing promising came to me) and then I was trying to decide what outfit to bump. All hail last minute crazed sewing!

The buttons weren't intended when ordering the kit, and are deep stash. Different buttons unfortunately for skirt and top, but they at least both complement the fabric.

The skirt is the same as used for my leopard print dress, a simple Simplicity swing skirt, actually the first thing I ever sewed :)

I did a lapped zipper on the skirt - which is now my ABSOLUTE FAVOURITE!! Thanks to tutorials by both Nicole and Winnie on their blogs. I will literally use this anywhere and everywhere I can now.

HAND PICKED AND EVRYFINK.

And I somehow found a thread that is bloody well invisible in this fabric. Its just so easy to get a good result from this method. I super enjoy doing it, I actually find this method really relaxing, like a form of meditation. Communing with zippers.

So as we can all see, there's a little gap between the separates occasionally.  nothing indecent - and really, about as much as I would feel comfortable with. And it's not clear initially - it's a bit peek-a-boo which is cute.

I'll leave you with a photo of me wearing the dress in Vegas :)

And my favourite Outtake pic of all :)

I look like I'm doing a pin-up face, but there was probably something in my teeth.... haha

Emmie x

Vegas Baby!

Hey Guys!

If you hadn't heard already, I'm taking a trip to America this April, which I am MASSIVELY EXCITED about. The whole trip has been planned around going to Las Vegas for the Viva Las Vegas Rockabilly Convention, which I can't wait for :)

Although within all of that excitement is a modicum of STRESS, because I need to make a holiday wardrobe. Who's bright idea was that? My main focus is Vegas, as Viva las Vegas (hereafter VLV) is a massive event, and all of the Rockabilly and Vintage ladies bring their A-Game. And they look amazing in regular day-to-day life, so imagine the level of amazingness.

I will be spending the next 11 weeks or so, sewing up a frenzy. I need a minimum of 4 day outfits and 4 evening outfits. The day outfits could be cobbled together from things I already have, so the major focus is the evening outfits.

I have considered how stressed I get, so I am also going to have a look round some vintage shops in London next weekend. Take the pressure off a bit. I'm willing to spend a reasonable amount, but only for something I love.

So, in a bid to fit the bill of both Vintage and Rockabilly, I decided to start off my wardrobe with a Vintage style, Leopard print dress :) I know I said I was focusing on evening, but I think this is more of a day dress.

This dress is my newest Minerva Crafts make, and is their Animal Print Stretch cotton, which can be found here. I had originally intended this to be a circle skirt, but the cotton turned out to be a lot lighter than expected so I felt that it wouldn't hold up as a circle skirt - so I decided on a dress with a circle skirt. 

I hadn't ordered enough fabric for a full circle skirt to be on the dress, but I got the guts of one!

I used the BHL Anna bodice, and I used this Simplicity skirt pattern as a basis for the skirt, but I got as much width out of the fabric I had as I could. 

I really love how the dress turned out - I did a back neck adjustment on the pattern of 3/8" as per Sonja's tutorial, and it's definitely better, but I could possibly do with tweaking out a tiny bit more. I also shortened the bust pleat by 1", as I noticed that they had been coming up over my bewbs. Clearly, this shouldn't be the case! I also ended up taking more out of the waist, I think because the cotton has stretch it had more give.

Anywho, I love it! May all the rest of the wardrobe some together as clean and easy. This really is my easy TNT pattern now. My first one!

The Dress that Broke the Overlocker's back...

Hey Guys,

Just popping in to show you my first (almost didn't finish) make of 2014. I decided to ease myself in after the Christmas burnout with something that I thought wouldn't be too taxing, but as anyone who know's-me-knows, those are my famous last words.

Dearies, everything in my life is a trial. All of my molehills morph into mountains. I'll tell you one thing, it makes me want to become a recluse and not venture into the modern world ever again.

If you follow my social media (@inkfairy on twitter, and @vintageinkfairy on instagram) you will know that my overlocker and I almost came to blows last friday afternoon. I had a TWAT shaped moment, and caused some damage.

Basically, I knew that in my 'Beginner Serging' class on Craftsy, that She shows you how to insert a zipper with your Overlocker. What I wanted to do was just to secure the zipper tape to my fabric. However, I didn't really consider what to do when I reached the zip. I thought about just serging off before I got there, but I thought, sher maybe I can pull the zip through like I do on my machine.

NO YOU CANNOT

I should've taken the foot off, or something sensible. But I got the zipper stuck, and then trying to get past it/off it, I hurt my poor overlocker. It didn't want to chain the left needle thread after that, and then didn't want to chain at all, and it all ended in tears that looked like this.

I am now a threading ninja, and have absorbed the process through which the needles and loopers interact, and the threads chain (at least on the surface of the machine). From examination of mine and another Janome model, it appeared to me that my upper looper had been dislodged slightly, and I spent an evening doing micro-adjustments to it until it was decent. It's not 100%, and still skips the odd stitch, but it's a band aid for now. Part of the issue may be that I replaced the needles that were there since I got it with Stretch needles instead of Ballpoint, but I can try and remedy that at the weekend. It did go off a bit on Saturday again, but I tweaked it back. It's definitely useable for now, but I can see a service looming in my future.

DISCLAIMER: I AM NOT RECOMMENDING THE 'TWEAKING' OF YOUR OVERLOCKER

Those things are intricate. And when I say micro-adjustments, I mean MICRO. Those needles come within a fraction of a millimetre of each other when they are working in unison. You do not want to balls it up any further. I know I'm the one to talk - I bloody well did it myself, but I was confident that I knew what the issue was and what needed to be done.

Now, let's resume tonight's scheduled viewing

I tried out my first long-sleeve Anna bodice, with a Simplicity 2444 skirt (I know, a Dolly Clackett special!) with some leafy and birdie print fabric from Fabricland in Brighton.

I know I've made the Anna pattern before, so things to note after this version:

I did Sonja's back neck adjustment of 3/8". It worked, but I may need more. Or maybe I just hold my shoulders odd sometimes. I damaged them a number of years ago, and they sort of have a mind of their own.

If you do the adjustment, don't forget to go back and redraft the facing (if you use them).

Don't underestimate the width of your arms when drafting the sleeve! I did, and had to go back and let out the sleeves.

The Simplicity skirt pattern marks the pleats quite far down the pattern piece, even though you are only supposed to pleat the top. Be careful not to mark it the whole way down with carbon paper (which I did without thinking in Sewing Club) and then have to spend time in the bathroom with a bottle of Vanish.

The eagle-eyed amongst you may notice that I managed to cut the front skirt panel upside down. Whoops.

I even TRIED to make sure I cut them all the same way. 

I think I will reduce the bust pleats on my next version, as these are coming up over the beginning of my bewbs.

I prefer how the skirt looks in these photo's but in real life, I feel that my shoulders/bust are looking slightly bigger than my hips, which isn't usual for me. I think if the skirt had more body I would be a lot happier - not to self, make a very light petticoat. I have a built in petticoat in one of my favourite dresses that consists of little more than some satin and a small tulle ruffle at the bottom, but it does the job.

I've worn this twice already, its very cute and comfy - I think I need a few more! I didn't line it, as I wanted it to be a light Spring dress, so I think I'm going to have to get around to making a half slip to avoid the sticking-to-tights trauma.

Well that's it for now dudes!

LYLT,

Emmie xx

More Vintage Goodies!! (Warning - Patterns!)

Hi guys,

I know what you're thinking. Emmie, stop buying shit, and sew something. Also, don't you already have a shed-load of patterns? When are you going to get around to sewing the ones you already have...

Or maybe you're not thinking that, because you guys are like me! 

But I'm sure that's what Mr.G is thinking. 

I swear I have been! I have a couple of UFO's hanging around that I need to get to finishing. 

I'm not that bad at putting in zips, so I don't know why I avoid them for so long. I would do it today, as Mr.G is off playing golf, but I've been invited for a wine & cheese afternoon. 

I thought it was an evening, but no, it's starting at about 2pm!

But I digress, you came here for Goodies... scroll on for the parade of dresses (with a couple of blouses thrown in for good measure)

And how did these fall into my lap. Well Laurie from Sew Exhausted bought her own parade, and when I stole a glance at Vintage Martini I was sold. Prices are so good, and when you have you're own personal enabler, what other way could the story end. Thanks again Laurie, I love them all!!

And further to that, I had my lovely Mammy visiting me, and when I took her to my favourite little vintage shop, I ended up coming home with some lovely cast iron Iron's (to use as pattern weights)....

And a lovely cantilever sewing box :)

This month I have also acquired some new scissors, which were cheap and appear to be nice and sharp! And a couple of rotary cutters. That's all, I swear. That's all I can remember anyways.

Just a little side note for all you out there who struggle to store their patterns... I spotted the most perfect little storage boxes in Wilkinsons today (although I forgot to go back and get them). I think they were these ones. The picture shows them from the side, but they are the right width for standard sized patterns I think (I have no idea what I am going to do with the large sized repro-vintage Vogue ones).

LYLT,

Emmie xx

Simplicity giveaway winner!

Hi guys!

I would like to announce that I have drawn the winner of the 1940s style pattern! (In the rolled up piece of paper official stylee!)

And the winner is ..... Sabs!!

Mr.G was very happy to be judiciary in the proceedings :)

If you see this post before I manage to get in contact with you, email me your address to myohsewvintagelife@gmail.com

Chat soon,

(Am up to my eyes in gathers)!

Emmie x

Jumping on the Simplicity Bandwagon...

Good Evening Ladies (& Gentlemen?)

This evening, as I'm sure you may have guessed 'Jumping on the Simplicity Bandwagon' refers to the fact that the generous people people over at Simplicity have added me to their long list of pattern review/giveaway hosts. And of course I was happy to oblige! 

I have spent hours trawling through the options, and came up with this pattern for you to fight over..

Just kidding, this ain't no competition. 

Alls you gotta do is leave me a comment telling me if you would like the pattern in your collection!

Which reminds me, I really need to update the 'Pattern Collection' tab in my header.

Although doing that may cause me to feel fairly guilty! I'm sure by now I MUST have all the patterns I need.

Unless you know... 

Someone releases a new pattern

Is it ridiculous that sometimes I don't even LIKE a newly released pattern until you gorgeous ladies start putting your beautiful creative spins all over them.

Anywho, enough about me, more about you!

You want?

I picked the 1587 as I love a bit of vintage styling (as if you hadn't guessed) and I thought it was quite pretty!
Not sure I could personally pull off a dropped waist but I'm sure swapping a different skirt in wouldn't take from the dress. It almost has a hint of a vintage Deer & Doe Reglissé about it.

It's sizing is H5 6-14 (Eur 32-42). I was stumped on what size to go for, but I usually err on the side of most people doing an FBA. We gots bewbs.

To be honest I really love this pattern, and honestly wanted to keep it all to myself, but I thought that the Simplicity people might get a bit mad at me.
I got guilt brain.

So if you would like to get 1587 popped through your letterbox (in the most timely fashion I can humanly (slothly) manage), please comment below before Sunday 18th August 2013 6pm GMT.
Winner will be drawn at random Sunday night. Open to anyone, anywhere :)

For fun, you could tell me where you see yourself wearing this dress??

Emmie x