Getting slightly out of sync here, but I love this so much I couldn't resist!
I finally got around to making up my first go at a Papercut Coppélia wrap cardigan, and by golly I love it.
I also love this outfit combination, I've worn it twice this week already!
As lovely as it is, it's really more of a wearable test run.
There were definitely adjustments made, the jersey was not exactly easy to keep any semblance of grain on, and I'm hearing stitches pop every time I tie it up - but I'm gonna wear it to death!
I cut a size S and I'm pretty happy with the fit in the body. I definitely wouldn't go any bigger! There's plenty of room for bewbs and such, but with a wrap cardigan you're gonna get more leeway in that department in any case.
The jersey is quite lightweight, and was from Goldhawk road. I think on a meetup - from whichever is the shop with all the Liberty prints. I don't usually buy much in there, but I was looking for jersey like this and there it was.
However I didn't realise how difficult it is to cut out on grain. And I underestimated how much I needed. And I think it was cut a bit arseways as the guy was new and struggling with wielding his shears. I offered to help, but no. I think I got 1.5m but that was cutting it close. Especially if you like to flirt with the grainline.
Therefore I think the ties got the worst of the wonky grain-ness. I made a half-arsed attempt with the body. I gauged that the ties would be all warped in the wrapping so no matter if they're warped from birth.
The major adjustment I did make was to take it in massively along the arms, under the arms and where the arm goes into the body, tapering down into the original waist. There was significant excess fabric, but I did hear that was possibly something that has been addressed in the updated pattern.
I also abandoned the cuffs, as I had to cut an inch off the sleeves to turn them up by an inch.
Loooong sleeves. Shoooorrrrt arms.
But they're okay now. I'll do some pattern piece alterations before I sew up the next one. Thankfully, stretchy fabric will be forgiving if I don't get it perfect for edition two!
I love how it nips you in at the waist :)
It's the one thing that always grated on me about other cardigans. I always felt frumpy and like I was losing my waist definition.
The instructions were fairly okay for the most part, though quite brief. There were some head scratching moments when I read through them first, and because the pattern pieces are not your usual shapes, you need to pay attention! Especially when they're flopping around, being all knit-like.
The other bit I had to go a bit maverick on was the neck band. There was a hell of a lot of easing to be done, and when I had stitched it all together I realised the neck band needed to go slightly further to be incorporated into the waist tie. With the front edges being even, part of the width of the neckband would be outside of the waistband.. One side I ripped back a bit and re-eased, the other side I sliced/trimmed a bit down the front edge until it looked how I needed it to look.
I didn't see anything mentioned about it in the instructions about this, so if anyone else has come up against it, or if I'm being particularly dense let me know.
I sewed it up on my regular machine, as my overlocker was not getting along with the jersey. Since the 'incident' and subsequent tinkering, I've been getting decent stitching on thicker fabric, but as I never use jersey, it never got tested. It was eating it all erratically, and there was no way I was going to be able to keep any sort of even feed or even produce an even tension across the loopers.
I know from finally getting to sew on the same model (but not broken) that although I'm getting an overlock stitch out of it, the loopers are definitely not in the same position/timing as an off the shelf model. How long do you think I'll put the service off?
The other thing I will definitely be working on for the next iteration is the optimal stitch for stretching with jersey. The off the cuff one I though was working definitely needs a bit more give. I have heard quite a few stitches go - mostly in the wrap tie I think. But considering how much of a bitch it is to unpick stitches from jersey, I won't get too concerned too quickly.
After finishing, I was a bit meh - but after the wearing, I adore it!
It's basically my perfect cardigan and there will be many more, in many colours.
And probably like three black ones! Cuz that is how I do.
I just have to remember to buy knits and not wovens...It may be a hard one to break.