BOOM! The Rigel Bomber

Thursday, 13 November 2014

Hey Guys!

I invite you to bear with me as I attempt to photograph a completely black outfit! This is of course Papercut Patterns Rigel Bomber jacket, and I'm in love!

This wasn't a pattern I was immediately drawn too, but after seeing Clare's version, and a few more popping up about the place I was hooked. I definitely wanted to go stash for my first try (to be honest I should be going stash for EVERYTHING because honestly it's gone beyond a joke. I can see like 7 pieces that have come in for this one getting out. And I have some of this left. AGHHH!)

The fabric is a black cotton twill I got at Rolls & Rems in Lewisham. I do really like the selection this shop has, but I do find that I'll love a print, but not in the fabric or vice-versa. And of course there's the slight chaos that is their cutting/paying procedure but we won't get into that.

I would love to shop in one of these places I've heard of that let you cut your own fabric. That would be amazing.

As soon as I put the jacket on I did a happy dance in the sitting room, and I've worn it a ton since. Oh and I'm sorry but - welt pocket anyone??? I fucking love these pockets. I put them off for ages and ages because I was scared, but what do you know, first time and perfect. I should've practised really, but I worry it might give me a false sense of security and I'll make mistakes because I'm cocky!

It's definitely a good idea to get a few good wears out of something before you launch into another version. I've noticed a few niggly things I may move to adjust in the next one.

I sized down as I wanted the more fitted look, so shockingly cut the XS. And it fits fine, but I find it a touch snug in the shoulders. For the bust and waist I'm happy with the ease. The arms are only *just* long enough - so if you have long arms beware! They do slouch naturally in regular arm positions thank goodness but if I reach for something I notice it.

I definitely would like to make the pocket bags bigger. I can get over that my arms are higher up in pockets than is natural, but it would be nice to be able to comfortably fit said hands in the pockets. Or, you know, be able to put my phone in my pocket without fear of it coming crashing out!

The other thing is that you really need a zipper that's short enough. I ordered a selection in marginally different sizes (like a dumbass ordered some that were close-ended) and this was the only one that would work. You can probably see it was a touch too long, and I'm getting a small V at the centre front. Oh well, I think I got away with it mostly.

Doesn't help that you don't know what supplies you need until the pattern arrives, but I managed to find out on Twitter. I wouldn't chance longer unless you're lengthening the pattern. To be honest I would err on slightly shorter next time as mine was a 14" and I think they recommended a 15"? Correct me if I'm wrong

Glasses are going on and off! I like them but the lenses aren't anti-glare and most pictures had light reflections all over them! I like how the jacket fits through the back though.

Oh, and BOOM!!!

This is basically my favourite thing about the jacket! The lining is a poly-satin (probably) from when I went to Minerva Crafts back in June. The colour is much more saturated in real life, but I was having light issues - which is why it took me a couple of weeks to get decent photos.

Drafting the lining wasn't too bad in the end. I just lined up the facing over the centre front pattern pieces and drew where a lining would intersect + seam allowance. I lined the sleeves also, so I sewed it up like the jacket, sewed it to the facing, sewed the facing to the jacket and flipped it all in. Handstitch down the hem and sleeves and Bob's your uncle.

Everyone keeps telling me they wish I'd put a reversible zip on so I could wear it inside out, but if the lining was to snag I may kill something. It was awful to work with for me. I don't do drape and I don't do slippery. I'm sure it was no where near that bad but it was to me. I had to french seam it due to the fraying, but the hem and sleeves were raw when I handstitched so fingers crossed they hold their own.

If anyone's thinking, 'um, you realise you don't wear trousers Emmie, never mind Jeans?', then you would be correct. I do not. I wore this exact ensemble out to dinner the other night, and when I stood up people said 'I thought you were wearing a dress!' I had been wanting to try this brand of jeans on for ages and finally found a real life pair (not stocked many places!) which fit like a dream. SO that's why I'm so broke this month. These are the Ton Up jeans by Freddie's of Pinewood. I did also buy the Classics and the Dungaree Dolls. And I never thought I would ever say that I owned a pair of dungarees. Ever. I didn't want to like them but they wormed their way in to my psyche.

The rise is almost perfect, a smidge longer would be absolutely perfect (but mostly for sitting down). I like the streamlined look of the front. And the detail I love so much is that the fly front is IN THE POCKET. Just under the side button. How awesome is that. 


I'm *slightly* obsessed with Nicki Minaj's Anaconda. I don't care if people feel it's inappropriate or derogatory, I just can't shake it. And I'm sorry but her waist/butt ratio is amazing. That yellow skirt in the Bang Bang video? Oh and I don't often like my behind in jeans but I do in these!

So there you go. I'll leave you with the picture of my ass. That's how I roll tonight.


Emmie xx

Vintage Guts Part.3

Sunday, 19 October 2014

Hey Guys!
I've had a super productive weekend! I finally managed to trace and muslin a By Hand London Charlotte skirt and cut out another  in fabric to add to a dress bodice (which happens to be a wearable muslin of a previous make!). 

My Papercut Patterns Rigel also arrived in the post Saturday morning (perfect timing!) and got traced and cut out in a black twill (and overlocked!). I also cut out my ribbing too. This will probably be my only decent pre-Paris make (oh, did I mention I was going to Paris??), and there's nothing I need more than some more jackets and a decent coat. 

Trying to decide whether to make a coat or buy one. If I manage to see one I like I'll buy but we shall see. I would start putting one together now, but I've realised how much fabric is required for a coat - every one I like in my stash needs between 3 and 5 yards and I don't have that much foresight! Plus, by the time I make one It'll be next Winter.

I also finally I redrafted out some of the excess in my Coppélia pattern and I'm planning on cutting that out too!

Oh and finally I took a bunch of the picture for future destashing on Etsy. I know, I know - shirink my stash by filling yours!

Now, what I'm here to show you today is another Vintage piece. I picked it up in New York, in a little Vintage shop in the East Village shortly before we left. I think I paid about $40. it was slightly more than I wanted to pay, especially because I'm not usually a fan of such a high neckline, but I fell in love with the Bead/Lantern design on the fabric and I couldn't leave it behind!

There's a large all-in-one facing that finishes the neckline and armholes. It looks pretty obvious here, but it's less obvious when it's worn. It opens with a long metal zip down the back.

It has quite a boxy shape, so there's no issue getting the top on and off. It just about tucks into a skirt, but there's somewhat of a risk it can pop out if I bend forward!

The seams are finished with overlocking (apart from the back seam for some reason), but there's nothing else fancy in the production. The neckline and armholes are understitched.

I've tried to find out about the brand, but nothing's coming up in my basic search! The top is a size 16, so ties in with normal vintage sizing.

I love this fabric!! I would buy the bolt if I could! I love embellished fabric like this. As you can see, the neckline is quite high, but it wasn't as bad as I thought it would be when I wore it.

The hem is blindstitched, and is hardly visible from the outside.

I can't think of much else to say! This one is short and sweet! I'll leave you with a picture of me wearing it that you may have already seen :)

Back soon!
Emmie x

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