Going Deep... Hems

Monday 6 April 2015


Hi Guys,

Today I'm pondering a question... Why do people hate on topstitched hems? I've done handstitched and topstitiched and to be honest, I lean towards topstitched more often than not. And somehow I feel bad for it!

To be honest, I like how they look. I just do. And as neat as my handstitching is, I don't trust it's longevity. Stitches are going to pop! And sometimes handstitching doesn't feel as secure as I would like, especially for a really deep hem. Herringbone or Slipstitch - it doesn't matter. It's feels all the same to me.

I was sewing this dress this weekend, and I really tossed and turned about the hem. Should I - Shouldn't I?

In the end I decided that I quite liked the definition the topstitching would bring, so I topstitched it. And I did it at the deep 4.5cm end of the hem. And I really like it!

I had eased the fabric slightly with the overlocking. I also made tiny pleats that I pinned in place to ease the excess as I pinned the hem up. I pressed it all in place and then topstitched from the outside. From the inside the pleats are visible but from the outside it looks lovely and smooth.


Now I'm not saying I would topstitch in every circumstance. I would sway more to handstitching for armholes and necklines where possible; and in a different colour or fabric I would still definitely consider it on a case by case basis, even after liking this version.

I just feel that topstitching a hem is nothing to be ashamed of! Let the topstitching roam free!!


How do you guys feel?

Emmie xx


18 comments :

  1. I do both too but often hand stitch a deep hem so that I can ease in better but yours looks fine. What is your dress like? Jo x

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  2. I'm all for topstitching, if you're wearing it and you love it why not? :)

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  3. I'm usually partial to a machine blind hem, but like a topstitched too. Usually the dress tells me which it would prefer :) I do a double turn though so I don't see an overlocked edge inside!

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  4. I do both. On cotton printed fabric I would do a machine stitched hem. i don't think it is noticeable . Sometimes I do feel that if I am easing in excess at the hem, hand stitching works better.

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  5. I think there is this idea that handstitching the hem is "higher quality" or has a nicer tailored look to it. It is true that a topstitched hem is very casual, but personally, most of my clothing is casual and I like an easy bias tape finish to my edges (that is then top stitched). Very fast and clean, and stays in place! My hand stitched hems are always catching on my boots or things and having to be restitched. I do like the look of a hand stitched deep hem, but I don't mind a top stitched one either. I say do what you like! They are your clothes after all!

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  6. I more often than not, top stitch my hems, although it's more from a laziness, or speediness point of view. On a self coloured fabric, I might consider a hand sewn hem, but on a busy print, I think it looks fine.

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  7. I do either, depending on what I'm making and the fabric. I agree with you around not trusting the longevity of a hand stitched hem though - I find they catch on things a lot more often....

    I just bought a blind hem foot for my machine and I'm rather looking forward to trying it out :)

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  8. I think the top stitching in your case is really nice. My Mathilde blouses are all top stitchd hems, but that is more because I find it asier to put together the pattern as so, and I wear things tucked in. Personally I prefer hand stitched hems myself, probably because I don't try to go fo a RTW look, and I love hand stitching; I somehow inherited my grandmother's ability for invisible slip stiching

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  9. I think there is a time & a place - or a garment! for every technique. I think it looks lovely on this dress & emphasises the deep hem which is a lovely feature.
    I've often seen hand stitched hems which pucker the outside garment & I often think a machine hem would have been nicer. And I've seen hems which should have been hand stitched. I think people just need to apply what works for each garment as it varies so widely & we all need to be open that there are different ways to do things in different situations.

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  10. I love a top stitched hem! I have a very limited sewing time so most times I do it for speed. But if it is a special fabric or make I will take the time to do a hand sewn hem. I do get you on feeling bad for doing top stitched hems sometimes. I always feel like people will judge it.

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  11. i love topstitching for hems too! especiallt if it's a cotton dress, with some more topstitching somewhere else, then i usually go for the machine topstitching. i think it really adds definition to the hem. that said, sometimes an invisible handstitch is better suited!

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  12. I must admit I love top stitching! the more the merrier for me!

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  13. I must admit I love top stitching! the more the merrier for me!

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  14. i do both, but for years would only handstitch as a result of being taught that in school and a top stitched hem was a no-no. I will top stitch blouses tops etc, but hand stitch a skirt or trousers...... i like to handstitch sometimes as its quite relaxing.................... (and tidier than my topstitching!!)

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  15. 100% with you, on the majority of my casual cotton dresses I topstitch the hems! I have a vintage 40s or 50s handmade (by whomever) dress that has a hem with the technique you did with the little pleats and top stitching. I felt very legit once I saw that! ;)

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  16. I tend to reserve topstitched hems for more casual looks myself, but the great thing about sewing is that you can do what you like! I actually enjoy the monotony of hand-sewing a hem because it gives me more control and gets me away from my machine and into the living area with my family and background movies/TV. Having said that, I think machine hems can be really beautiful, especially with heirloom stitches. I'd really like to try that sort of thing eventually!

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  17. I go for topstitched more than hand-sewn hems most of the time but it will depend on the type of garment too. To be honest, most people don't make their own clothes and have no idea how much work is involved, so I don't think they'd notice the difference!

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  18. I like both. I usually tend to favour hand-sewing hems - and I must admit to never having had a problem with their longevity - but I agree with the commenters who've said that a top-stitched hem can look really beautiful and smart. And sometimes it's just an easier, neater option! Like you, I've noticed a few people basically openly sneering at topstitched hems but, eh, I think they can definitely be appropriate! I love what you've done with this one and I'm looking forward to seeing the finished dress.

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I really adore reading your comments :)

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