BOOM! The Rigel Bomber

Hey Guys!

I invite you to bear with me as I attempt to photograph a completely black outfit! This is of course Papercut Patterns Rigel Bomber jacket, and I'm in love!

This wasn't a pattern I was immediately drawn too, but after seeing Clare's version, and a few more popping up about the place I was hooked. I definitely wanted to go stash for my first try (to be honest I should be going stash for EVERYTHING because honestly it's gone beyond a joke. I can see like 7 pieces that have come in for this one getting out. And I have some of this left. AGHHH!)

The fabric is a black cotton twill I got at Rolls & Rems in Lewisham. I do really like the selection this shop has, but I do find that I'll love a print, but not in the fabric or vice-versa. And of course there's the slight chaos that is their cutting/paying procedure but we won't get into that.

I would love to shop in one of these places I've heard of that let you cut your own fabric. That would be amazing.

As soon as I put the jacket on I did a happy dance in the sitting room, and I've worn it a ton since. Oh and I'm sorry but - welt pocket anyone??? I fucking love these pockets. I put them off for ages and ages because I was scared, but what do you know, first time and perfect. I should've practised really, but I worry it might give me a false sense of security and I'll make mistakes because I'm cocky!

It's definitely a good idea to get a few good wears out of something before you launch into another version. I've noticed a few niggly things I may move to adjust in the next one.

I sized down as I wanted the more fitted look, so shockingly cut the XS. And it fits fine, but I find it a touch snug in the shoulders. For the bust and waist I'm happy with the ease. The arms are only *just* long enough - so if you have long arms beware! They do slouch naturally in regular arm positions thank goodness but if I reach for something I notice it.

I definitely would like to make the pocket bags bigger. I can get over that my arms are higher up in pockets than is natural, but it would be nice to be able to comfortably fit said hands in the pockets. Or, you know, be able to put my phone in my pocket without fear of it coming crashing out!

The other thing is that you really need a zipper that's short enough. I ordered a selection in marginally different sizes (like a dumbass ordered some that were close-ended) and this was the only one that would work. You can probably see it was a touch too long, and I'm getting a small V at the centre front. Oh well, I think I got away with it mostly.

Doesn't help that you don't know what supplies you need until the pattern arrives, but I managed to find out on Twitter. I wouldn't chance longer unless you're lengthening the pattern. To be honest I would err on slightly shorter next time as mine was a 14" and I think they recommended a 15"? Correct me if I'm wrong

Glasses are going on and off! I like them but the lenses aren't anti-glare and most pictures had light reflections all over them! I like how the jacket fits through the back though.

Oh, and BOOM!!!

This is basically my favourite thing about the jacket! The lining is a poly-satin (probably) from when I went to Minerva Crafts back in June. The colour is much more saturated in real life, but I was having light issues - which is why it took me a couple of weeks to get decent photos.

Drafting the lining wasn't too bad in the end. I just lined up the facing over the centre front pattern pieces and drew where a lining would intersect + seam allowance. I lined the sleeves also, so I sewed it up like the jacket, sewed it to the facing, sewed the facing to the jacket and flipped it all in. Handstitch down the hem and sleeves and Bob's your uncle.

Everyone keeps telling me they wish I'd put a reversible zip on so I could wear it inside out, but if the lining was to snag I may kill something. It was awful to work with for me. I don't do drape and I don't do slippery. I'm sure it was no where near that bad but it was to me. I had to french seam it due to the fraying, but the hem and sleeves were raw when I handstitched so fingers crossed they hold their own.

If anyone's thinking, 'um, you realise you don't wear trousers Emmie, never mind Jeans?', then you would be correct. I do not. I wore this exact ensemble out to dinner the other night, and when I stood up people said 'I thought you were wearing a dress!' I had been wanting to try this brand of jeans on for ages and finally found a real life pair (not stocked many places!) which fit like a dream. SO that's why I'm so broke this month. These are the Ton Up jeans by Freddie's of Pinewood. I did also buy the Classics and the Dungaree Dolls. And I never thought I would ever say that I owned a pair of dungarees. Ever. I didn't want to like them but they wormed their way in to my psyche.

The rise is almost perfect, a smidge longer would be absolutely perfect (but mostly for sitting down). I like the streamlined look of the front. And the detail I love so much is that the fly front is IN THE POCKET. Just under the side button. How awesome is that. 

OH MY GOSH. LOOK. AT. HER. BUTT.

I'm *slightly* obsessed with Nicki Minaj's Anaconda. I don't care if people feel it's inappropriate or derogatory, I just can't shake it. And I'm sorry but her waist/butt ratio is amazing. That yellow skirt in the Bang Bang video? Oh and I don't often like my behind in jeans but I do in these!

So there you go. I'll leave you with the picture of my ass. That's how I roll tonight.

LYLT,

Emmie xx

So back to me being a Ballerina.... Papercut Coppélia

Hey Guys,

Getting slightly out of sync here, but I love this so much I couldn't resist!

I finally got around to making up my first go at a Papercut Coppélia wrap cardigan, and by golly I love it.

I also love this outfit combination, I've worn it twice this week already!

As lovely as it is, it's really more of a wearable test run. 

There were definitely adjustments made, the jersey was not exactly easy to keep any semblance of grain on, and I'm hearing stitches pop every time I tie it up - but I'm gonna wear it to death!

I cut a size S and I'm pretty happy with the fit in the body. I definitely wouldn't go any bigger! There's plenty of room for bewbs and such, but with a wrap cardigan you're gonna get more leeway in that department in any case.

The jersey is quite lightweight, and was from Goldhawk road. I think on a meetup - from whichever is the shop with all the Liberty prints. I don't usually buy much in there, but I was looking for jersey like this and there it was. 

However I didn't realise how difficult it is to cut out on grain. And I underestimated how much I needed. And I think it was cut a bit arseways as the guy was new and struggling with wielding his shears. I offered to help, but no. I think I got 1.5m but that was cutting it close. Especially if you like to flirt with the grainline.

Therefore I think the ties got the worst of the wonky grain-ness. I made a half-arsed attempt with the body. I gauged that the ties would be all warped in the wrapping so no matter if they're warped from birth.

The major adjustment I did make was to take it in massively along the arms, under the arms and where the arm goes into the body, tapering down into the original waist. There was significant excess fabric, but I did hear that was possibly something that has been addressed in the updated pattern.

I also abandoned the cuffs, as I had to cut an inch off the sleeves to turn them up by an inch. 

Loooong sleeves. Shoooorrrrt arms.

But they're okay now. I'll do some pattern piece alterations before I sew up the next one. Thankfully, stretchy fabric will be forgiving if I don't get it perfect for edition two!

I love how it nips you in at the waist :)

It's the one thing that always grated on me about other cardigans. I always felt frumpy and like I was losing my waist definition.

The instructions were fairly okay for the most part, though quite brief. There were some head scratching moments when I read through them first, and because the pattern pieces are not your usual shapes, you need to pay attention! Especially when they're flopping around, being all knit-like.

The other bit I had to go a bit maverick on was the neck band. There was a hell of a lot of easing to be done, and when I had stitched it all together I realised the neck band needed to go slightly further to be incorporated into the waist tie. With the front edges being even, part of the width of the neckband would be outside of the waistband.. One side I ripped back a bit and re-eased, the other side I sliced/trimmed a bit down the front edge until it looked how I needed it to look.

I didn't see anything mentioned about it in the instructions about this, so if anyone else has come up against it, or if I'm being particularly dense let me know.

I sewed it up on my regular machine, as my overlocker was not getting along with the jersey. Since the 'incident' and subsequent tinkering, I've been getting decent stitching on thicker fabric, but as I never use jersey, it never got tested. It was eating it all erratically, and there was no way I was going to be able to keep any sort of even feed or even produce an even tension across the loopers. 

I know from finally getting to sew on the same model (but not broken) that although I'm getting an overlock stitch out of it, the loopers are definitely not in the same position/timing as an off the shelf model. How long do you think I'll put the service off?

The other thing I will definitely be working on for the next iteration is the optimal stitch for stretching with jersey. The off the cuff one I though was working definitely needs a bit more give. I have heard quite a few stitches go - mostly in the wrap tie I think. But considering how much of a bitch it is to unpick stitches from jersey, I won't get too concerned too quickly.

After finishing, I was a bit meh - but after the wearing, I adore it!

It's basically my perfect cardigan and there will be many more, in many colours.

And probably like three black ones! Cuz that is how I do.

I just have to remember to buy knits and not wovens...It may be a hard one to break.

Emmie xx

Who likes SHORT-SHORTS?? Rite of Spring Shorts - Papercut Patterns

Hey Guys,

(You've been getting the vintage - now here's a peek of the ink, haha)

I'm gonna start drip-feeding you my holiday wardrobe as I do the finishing touches :)

This may be a part of my Holiday wardrobe, but I'm still as of yet undecided...

These are the Rite of Spring shorts by Papercut Patterns. I've been dreaming of these shorts ever since Lauren over at Lladybird made them, and I've been perving on that blog post ever since! There may have even been communal perving with Clare over cocktails, haha

I do want to state now, that as much as I am unsure about this particular pair of shorts, I still love the pattern. I want to show off the pattern in it's best light so I have chosen the most flattering photo's to begin with (but I will show you my issues at the end).

Weird bum crease, eh? I had zip issues so its either that or I'm photo tensing, haha

Now I'll explain to you my reasoning behind whether they are going to come to the US with me.

By the way, this is my first time using piping, and I LOVE IT.

I used this as my wearable muslin, and used a heavy Denim that I had gathering dust in the form of my first solo-skirt. Now, the pattern does specifically say not to use anything to heavy, but I figured, in my infinite wisdom, that something heavy would hold me together a bit better. The only thing I try to disguise is my stomach, and I thought something light would cling quite badly.

(Lots of Bum coverage)

Turns out that heavy denim doesn't quite work. Turns out it isn't the most comfortable thing to wear in the form of this sort of pattern. Especially with such a bulky crotch seam! And turns out it doesn't disguise an unflat stomach as much as I would have hoped. 

Also, I need to ask you guys - I know nothing about crotch curves. Or crotches in general. Is there any way that you can avoid creases at the crotch if your thighs meet in the middle (as opposed to having a thigh gap).

I have no issue with my thighs, but it is one of the reasons that I very rarely wear trousers in general. 

Camel-toe is not a flattering look on anyone.

I will show you some photo's that begin to explain my unflattering predicament (but bear in mind are no where near the most horrendous ones I took)

TUMMY HUGGING

TUMMY HUGGING THIGH TOUCH CROTCH CREASE

So... help?

I'm going to try it out in a stretch cotton that I have. It has stretch and a tropical print, so may help with the tummy disguising? Thoughts?

Is there some sort of crotch curve adjustment that would help?

Or should I just buy some control pants and walk around like a cowboy?

Emmie x