Showing posts with label pattern cutting. Show all posts
Showing posts with label pattern cutting. Show all posts

The Oz Dress - Elisalex FBA complete!

Sunday, 15 September 2013


Hi Guys!

I finally (FINALLY) finished my attempt at an Elisalex bodice with a full bust adjustment.
It's been a long time coming, as there were a few delays along the way, but I did post some progress pictures along the way on Instagram and Twitter.





I knew I definitely needed to adjust the bodice when I finished my last Elisalex.
 It fit, but it didn't fit the way it should! I definitely had the "Squished VonBoobies" look. I followed the FBA instructions written up by Elisalex (and by this point I actually understood them!), and did a 5/8" FBA, with another inch added to the bodice length (although next time I think I'll do 1.5"). I think I gave myself a tiny bit extra in the bust than my measurement just for comfort.

But with this comparison photo, even with the bodice just pinned together you can definitely see the improvement! Much more room, and the girls are much perkier, I'm sure you'll agree! The fabric is a blue Gingham (probably polycotton) I got at a market in Rye.




So what happened next was Delay 1. Which I think was pre-washing my lining. But that was easily fixed once I actually put it in the washing machine. Clever, eh?

Once I had the bodice lined I had to attach the gathered skirt FROM HELL.
I put the whole thing together, and then found loads of bits of the skirt that had caught up into the seam. 
Argh!
Then, upon rectifying each individual bit, I managed to catch other different bits. And upon fixing those I caught other bits. By the time I finished the skirt, with no bits caught up I was fit to go into the garden and set the whole thing alight.

And so Delay 2 happened. Wherein the half-finished dress sat on my dressform for weeks. I did at some point manage to cut out some lining to line the skirt, as I realised it was indecently see-through.

Then it sat there for another while, until I decided to bite the bullet and put the zip in. And I even took the time to hand-baste it first, although really it doesn't take that long at all!

And then yesterday I decided to knuckle down and get it finished before I died of old age.

And to be honest I actually love the stupid thing.




And I'm using my fancy new tripod that Mr.G bought me. It's super cool and I got to use my wireless remote! I used most of the width of the fabric for the skirt and I managed to somehow get the length I had wanted all along! The bodice length does actually look and feel good, but I think I only did a 1cm seam on the bodice/skirt as I knew I needed all the length I could get. Still might add a little more next time so I can do a full seam allowance.




Since taking this picture, I have realised how much lower my right shoulder is.
And this was me trying to not look so wonky! Although I feel stupid saying that with my wonky crossed legs.




I really can't believe how perfect the fit is. I'm definitely gonna be using these pieces as my Princess Seam Block now, and playing with neckline and back variations. But I doubt I will be doing another gathered skirt anytime soon.

I am, however, pretty happy with the skirt in general. It doesn't make me look AS big as I thought it might. I do look quite hip-py, although most of that is actually hip. My hips pop out almost straight after my waist.

The stitching on the hem wasn't my best, as I was more focused on (a) trying to get all the white stitching in the white line of boxes and (b) trying to keep the edge of the skirt a blue box. But at least I managed those two things!




I do however think my next couple of makes are not going to be fully lined, as I want a few nice quick makes! But it does look good. And it was definitely necessary for this fabric. I do however want to escape to the land of folded hems and bias bound hems for a bit. I'll avoid facing-land if I can.




The dress kind of makes me feel like a cross between Dorothy (Damn should've worn my red heels!) and a ballet dancer. And I secretly used to prance around when I was younger (until not that much younger), pretending I was one. So, for your pleasure, some ballet style posing :)



And that's it! I wore it to dinner last night, and it was lovely and comfortable, so I know it will get plenty of wear! Although it may have to wait until the weather is nicer...

I'll leave you with a final pic of me with my regular grumpy.resting.face




LYLT,

Emmie x








In love with FASHIONARY...

Thursday, 25 July 2013

Hi Guys,

Sorry if you're sick of the sight of me, but this is my my sewcation and I'm feeling inspired!

Today, don't worry I haven't a new make, but I have got a new book that I want to show and tell!

And so I present to you - FASHIONARY






Some of you might have come across these awesome books before. 
For those who don't know, the name 'FASHIONARY' comes from 'Fashion + Dictionary + Diary'. 
FASHIONARY is a sort of Fashion Design Dictionary, Diary, and sketch enabler.

I have decided recently that I want to start learning the art of pattern cutting, and remembered how I used to have a sketchbook as a young teen, where I would sketch clothes whenever I got inspiration. 
I thought this would be a good idea for the present, so that I could try to get my creative juices going again.

Then I remembered that I had come across FASHIONARY a long time ago, and was very tempted to buy one. 
And so I decided it was about time to bite the bullet and do it. 

In the A5 book, the first 34 pages are the Dictionary. 
They are filled with all sorts of things from a Brand Index, to a Bibliography of Fashion and Sewing books, to a Body Measurement section, to Fabric Information & Seams and Stitches.







The remaining 130 pages are the Diary.
On these 130 pages, the 'Diary' has 400 barely visible figure templates (3 per page), to enable faster and more consistent fashion sketching. They are formed of dots, and are barely visible, so you can use the pages as regular pages also, if you like.
Difficult to get a good photo of!




It's really a very inspiring notebook. 

I chose the A5 instead of the A4, as there are only 3 figures per page in both sizes, and you get more figures overall in the A5 size (400 vs 280). I guess it depends on how much detail you want to include on your drawings. Also, its the perfect size for sticking in your bag, for when inspiration strikes.

They do have other memo pads and things you can buy too, and you can download a free pdf of the templates to give them a go. Pretty generous in my estimation.

To see the notebooks in amazing action, check out http://fashionary.org/poll/
I can't believe the detail, and the difference in all of the sketches.

The website is American, but I bought mine from Amazon for about £16.
I know, a bit pricey for a notebook, but sometimes you need to pay for beautiful things.
You can buy them direct with free shipping, but the Amazon price is actually almost the correct conversion.

I'll leave you with some of the book specs!

Emmie xx



(disclamer : I bought this notebook with my own, hard-earned, funds and this is an independent and 
un-biased review)


Made With Love By The Dutch Lady Designs